Now that you’ve created a fancy block of wood, let’s slice it up! Using the miter gauge and fence is not recommended because the piece can bind. For my setup, the fence clamps along the front and back, so I simply make sure the back side is clamped a little wider than the front. You should also make sure to use the riving knife and blade cover for safety.
If you want to be as efficient as possible with your wood, trim the ends and measure the resulting block. Subtract the sum of the kerfs from the cuts. Remember that you’ll have one less cut than pieces - if you want nine pieces for a 3X3 grid, you will make eight cuts to get the nine pieces. Now take the resulting length and divide it by the number of pieces, nine in our example.
Our table saw uses a 10" blade, which allows for a cut a little over 4" thick. Our workpiece is larger, so we had to do two passes to complete the cut. A large bandsaw would have been able to make the cut in one pass, but we do not have a bandsaw.
For multiple pass cutting, set the blade slightly over halfway through the workpiece. By only cutting as far as needed instead of the maximum blade height, we minimize any error due to slight angle of the blade. It’s best to test the cut with some scrap wood first, since any error in angle of the miter gauge or saw blade will result in more planing needed, and wasted wood.
It’s best practice to number the pieces. Depending on your design, this may allow you to bookmatch pieces, where the pieces from a cut are placed mirror-imaged against each other. This makes for a really cool visual effect like we did on our Walnut cabinets